What you get
- Every visible flaw, named — dents, scratches, rust, cracked or misaligned panels, paint that doesn't match its neighbor.
- Prior-repair signs flagged — overspray, uneven panel gaps, disturbed bolts, and filler tells that say a panel was repaired or replaced, whether or not the seller mentioned it.
- A real number for all of it — a line-by-line repair cost for your exact vehicle and trim, reviewed by a qualified technician, I-CAR certified. That's the figure you negotiate with.
- A straight verdict — cosmetic and negotiable, or structural red flags that mean walk away and get an in-person inspection first.
How it works
1. Save the listing photos. Screenshot or download every photo in the ad — sellers photograph their car's best angles, and even those show more than they think.
2. Upload them with the car's details. Year, make, model, and exact trim drive accurate parts pricing. Mention anything the seller told you about accidents or repairs in the description box.
3. See your instant estimate free, then unlock the review. Payment — one flat $19.99 — only unlocks the full breakdown and starts the certified technician review. No shop visit, no appointment, no trip across town while the seller fields other buyers.
Seeing the car in person? Shoot these too
Listing photos get you started. If you go look at the car, add: straight-on shots down each side (ripples mean bodywork), close-ups of every panel gap, door jambs and bolt heads, the edges under the hood and trunk, rocker panels, and any rust bubbles around the wheel arches. Our full 30-minute buyer's walkaround shows exactly what to look for, in order.
What this is — and what it is not
It is a body and collision check: the panels, paint, and structure a body technician can read from clear photos, priced honestly. Body work is where private-sale surprises hide — a "clean" car with a $2,000 prior repair is not priced like a clean car, and it won't resell like one either.
It is not a mechanical inspection. It does not check the engine, transmission, brakes, suspension wear, or electronics, and no photo review replaces an in-person inspection. A standard pre-purchase inspection runs $100–$200 and focuses on mechanicals — this $19.99 check covers the body side those inspections barely look at, and if the photos show structural red flags, the report tells you to get that in-person inspection before buying.
Turn the report into a lower price
Documented flaws are leverage only with a dollar figure attached. "The right fender shows overspray and a missing VIN sticker, and the repair is $800" moves a seller. "It seems a little rough" doesn't. And some findings aren't a discount conversation at all — structural damage, flood signs, or a seller who won't let you inspect the car are walk-away findings at any price.
Selling a car? Put this in your listing
Sellers: the fastest way to end the "what's wrong with it?" messages and the lowball haggling is to offer the check yourself. Paste the blurb below into your Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist listing — it costs you nothing, and the buyer pays the $19.99 if they use it. Buyers who can verify the body before they travel show up serious, offer closer to your price, and don't try to knock $500 off at the curb over a scratch they just noticed.
Copy-paste listing blurb:
Why it works for sellers: a listing that invites an independent check reads as honest, because it is. It filters out time-wasters, gives nervous buyers a way to say yes, and moves the negotiation from guesses about damage to a documented number both sides can see.
Related guides for buyers
Frequently asked questions
What does the pre-purchase body check look at?
Only what's visible in the photos: dents, scratches, rust, panel gaps, paint mismatch, overspray, and other signs a panel was repaired or replaced — plus a real repair-cost figure for everything found, so you know what the car's price is hiding.
Is this a full pre-purchase inspection?
No. This is a body and collision check from photos — it does not inspect the engine, transmission, brakes, or any mechanical or electrical system, and it does not replace an in-person inspection. If the photos show structural red flags, the report says so and recommends an in-person body shop inspection before you buy.
Which photos should I send?
Start with the seller's listing photos — save or screenshot every one. Then, if you see the car in person, add your own: straight-on shots of each side, close-ups of any damage, panel gaps, door jambs, and under the hood and trunk. More clear photos means a sharper report.
How fast will I get the report?
The AI instant estimate arrives in about a minute. The full technician-reviewed report is typically delivered within 24 hours — fast enough for most private sales, where the car may sell in days.
Can I use the report to negotiate?
Yes — that's the point. A documented repair cost turns "it has a few scratches" into a specific number: "The prior repair on this corner costs $800 to put right — I need that off the price." Sellers take a real line-item figure far more seriously than a guess.