The math, with real numbers
| Job | Typical range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Repair $800, deductible $1,000 | Pay cash | Insurance pays $0 — filing gains nothing |
| Repair $1,200, deductible $1,000 | Pay cash | You’d net $200 but risk years of higher premiums |
| Repair $2,500, deductible $1,000 | File | You net $1,500; claim likely worth it |
| Repair $4,000+, any deductible | File | This is what collision coverage is for |
| Other driver at fault | File | Their liability pays; your deductible doesn’t apply |
Run your own numbers
Pick a common repair (or type in your own number), slide to your deductible, and get the same verdict this guide gives — instantly.
Pick a repair to see your verdict
The rule of thumb from this guide: if the repair costs less than about 1.5× your deductible, paying out of pocket usually wins.
What affects the price
- Your deductible. This is the number everything hinges on. A $1,000 deductible means the first $1,000 of any repair is yours regardless — filing a $1,300 claim nets you $300 and a claim on your record.
- Premium increases are real. An at-fault claim typically raises premiums 20–40% for 3–5 years. On a $1,800/year policy, that’s $1,000–$3,500 extra over time — often more than the repair you claimed.
- Claim-free discounts. Many insurers discount 10–20% for clean records. One claim can erase that discount on top of the surcharge — a double hit people forget to count.
- Comprehensive vs. collision. Hail, theft, and animal strikes fall under comprehensive, which usually affects premiums less than at-fault collision claims. Know which coverage your damage falls under before deciding.
- Can you afford the repair? The math says pay cash for small repairs — but if you genuinely can’t, that’s what insurance is for. Don’t drive a damaged car for a year to protect a premium discount.
Do this before you call your insurer
Get the real number first. You can’t do the deductible math without knowing the repair cost — and a body shop’s free ‘estimate’ is often a sales tool, not a firm number. Get an independent, line-item estimate (ours is $19.99, reviewed by a certified tech, back in ~24 hours), compare it to your deductible, then decide. I’ve seen $19.99 save people from filing claims that would have cost them thousands in premiums.
Related cost guides
Frequently asked questions
Will filing a claim raise my premium?
An at-fault collision claim usually does — typically 20–40% for several years. Comprehensive claims (hail, theft) and not-at-fault claims generally affect premiums less, but rules vary by state and insurer.
What if the other driver was at fault?
File against their liability coverage — your deductible doesn’t apply and it shouldn’t affect your premiums. Get a police report if there’s any dispute about fault.
What’s the difference between comprehensive and collision?
Collision covers crashes — you hitting something or someone hitting you. Comprehensive covers everything else: hail, theft, vandalism, animals, falling objects. Check which one your damage falls under; it changes the math.
Can I get my own estimate before involving insurance?
Absolutely — and you should. Nothing requires you to use the insurer’s number first. An independent estimate gives you leverage and lets you decide whether filing even makes sense.